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I already have a build thread going on RCG, but I figured it would be appropriate to have a parallel thread here

I recently got a Ritewing Zephyr, the first 48" one ever made. I'm pretty sure even Chris hasn't even built one

I have never built or flown a wing before, so if anyone has any suggestions please let me know.

Heres the gear that's going on it

Electronics:
Arc 28-47-1.5 2800 Kv
Phoenix 60 amp
850 mAh LiFe rx pack
Hyperion 3S 2200 VX packs
JR DS821 Servos
Futaba R6008HS 2.4GHz rx

FPV Gear:
Range video 900 Mhz 500mW
DPC-420osd camera
Eagle tree eLogger, OSD pro, GPS v3

On the ground:
8dBi patch
Fatshark goggles
Aiptek recorder
Futaba 8FG tx

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Step one:

Squeeze some Gorilla / Sumo (or other expanding polyurethane glue) into both spar slots. Squirt some water with a mister down both slots after the glue to activate it. I also gave the spar a good even misting all the way around.

Insert the carbon spar into 1 side, wipe off any glue and water from the joining surfaces then give some good coats of 3m90 (not 77) and let them tack up, then press together.

[attachment=710]

I later went ahead and laid out all the gear the way I think is going to work best.

[attachment=709]

Next you want to go ahead and draw out an outline for the bays you plan to cut out, then go ahead and cut them out. I used the recommended tool of a weller trigger soldering gun with 12 gauge copper wire molded to about the size of a servo.

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Next I cut out a square block where the motor mount goes, gooped it in, and capped it with the block I cut out. I clamped it, let it dry, and the next day I trimmed it flush with an exacto blade and finished smoothing it with a sanding block. Goop works but is the old method, and Chris has switched to hot glue.

Now I started cutting out the bays. Marked up the servo locations, cut those out as well. I used an exacto instead of the cutting iron to cut out the shelves for the coroplast lids so I could be more accurate.

[attachment=711]

I accidentally cut one of the servo holes too deep, so I just cut it all the way through and will cap it before the next step. I also forgot to leave tabs for the electronics bay to install a magnet, but I may still go with the new method of not hinging all the way across. Will probably PU glue blocks in and add magnets so I have easier access to all my gear.

[attachment=712]

Still undecided about where to put my ESC. Was thinking of mounting it exposed, but flush, for cooling, but I think I will just leave it in the bay as shown.

Very clean build, thanks for sharing

Best regards
Heiko

Thanks

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Now I centered the servos, gave each some subtrim to make it exactly 90*, then installed and cut the control rods. I'm using the Sullivan carbon fibre reinforced rod and gold-n clevises. I trimmed out the channels then used hot glue to hold down the outer tube. Didn't do such a great job on the right channel, but I'll cover it up

After that I marked up and with a exacto sliced a slit for the outer spars. Make sure the top and bottom sets start and stop at the same location on the wing for maximum rigidity. Also you should be crossing over the main spar. To glue it in, do one set at a time. I started with the bottom while in the wing beds. Squeeze in some PU glue (gorilla, sumo, etc), spread into the channel a bit with a popsicle stick or something to that extent. Spray some water and run the stick through it again. I then gave the spar a good misting, spin it around in the glue on top of the wing, then press it in and you can give it another couple of turns to spread the glue. I scraped the excess off the top of the wing (helps to push some back into the channel) with a clean popsicle stick. Do one spar at a time if you're using this method of gluing so that you can trim the excess off after it expands in about 15-20 minutes without having to rush. Use a new, long blade (snap off exacto blade) you can very easily and cleanly trim the excess glue when it stops to be sticky, but is still soft. You'll have approximately a 5 minute window.

Make sure your wing has some weight on the trailing edge (and any part that isn't sitting nice and flush on wing bed) so your wing ends up nice and straight.

Next I marked the final location of the VTX and GPS and cut it out with the weller trigger iron. With everything nicely embedded, and the VTX flush for cooling (am going to cut off the lamination from the metal case of the tx for cooling) I started working on the wiring, I used a shielded USB cable for the GPS, but then decided because of how heavy it is, and the fact that I only need 3 wires for the VTX wiring, I just used some 22 guauge wire, twisted up the entire length, then wound it 10 times through a ferrite ring.

Up next I started working on the wiring so I can close up the electronics bay. Twisted all wire leads to help reduce interfence.

For this setup I needed to make a parallel connector, with the connectors at just the right locations. Here's how I did it; Planned out in advance lengths and orientations of everything, then soldered up the long set of leads like normal.

[attachment=716]

After that I held the second lead in place (already soldered up to a connector) and wrapped it tight with some solid core wire (I think it's 16 guage) to hold it in place, solder and heat shrink everything up and you're good to go! Make sure to use a multimeter to check for prop continuity and resistance.

[attachment=717]

It's close to impossible for me to keep precise order of things, the next things that have been completed since the last update are, in approximate order:

Finished burying wires for vtx, planned antenna placement and buried antenna + tube with each active portion 90* apart. Filled in areas that needed it with foam (vtx wire channel + embedded ferrite, over-melted control rod channel, gps wire...)

[attachment=720]
[attachment=721]

Placed the camera, routed wiring, wired everything up, servos, osd, vtx, everything electronic is ready to go! Just need to decide on a vtx antenna.

[attachment=718]
[attachment=719]

I've also cut the access hatches in the coro lid for the electronics bay, this will be seen in the next update, when it's mounted on the wing.

sweet camera pod! I've often wondered how much drag an exposed cam gives. Awesome build.

Thanks I just hope I get it done with enough time to fly before the weather turns to...

I too wonder how much drag a camera adds. I want this plane to be fast, so I figured any way to reduce drag is a good thing It seems like it should reduce drag quite a bit, plus, it only cost $0.50 Now I hope I can get the sharpie off lol

I've been having a really hard time deciding on an antenna, between the commercial one shown above, or a homemade center fed dipole or inverted V. I would like to go with a inverted V, but it should be bent forward, with the feed line coming from the back (not inside the bend) this poses for quite a challenge on the wing. I would have to mount it towards the rear of the winglet, and put some pretty sharp bends in the rg58 feed line.

My inverted Vee is backwards, and works like a hot damn.

Hmm, what kind of range are you getting, looks like 900MHz?

I'm pretty sure it's better to have it facing forwards so that you get better reception when you're turning around to fly home

(09-09-2010 08:34 PM)Jaguar_5 Wrote: [ -> ]Hmm, what kind of range are you getting, looks like 900MHz?

I'm pretty sure it's better to have it facing forwards so that you get better reception when you're turning around to fly home

That's true, but if it is much easier to mount it the other way. Why wouldn't you.

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